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Q: I removed the PC equipment from the car and what a transformation! All hesitation is eliminated! A splendid result. I had the Pertronix distributor, Lucas Sport coil and Cobolt equipment so went ahead and installed all that too. I followed the written instructions as well as the Moss video so the timing is close but not right. I couldn't figure out how to static time the car as my only knowledge comes from a John Twist video and of course that's on a mechanical unit.
The instructions suggest you source the vacuum hose from a "ported" vacuum source. Mine is from the original back side of the carburetor. Can you suggest a "ported" vacuum source? I have no clue.
Also is there a tool to help remove "padded" dash board switches? AKA the Abingdon pillow.
Your help has been huge on this phase of my project and am looking forward to getting it licensed inspected in a few weeks. All that remains is fixing the hazard lights. Relay but that didn't help. I'm thinking the switch.
A: With regard to your ported vacuum source, go directly to the intake manifold. You should have (or have had) a vacuum port there from the gulp valve. In the Moss catalog it is shown under "Emissions" as item # 41 in the breakout chart, listed as an adapter below. It should have been there when you removed the gulp valve and usually gets replaced with a plain bolt and washer.
Unfortunately, it is not available new, but can be found in most MG enthusiasts' tool box or at swap meets. It is basically a bolt drilled with an 1/8" od tube through the middle, so can be fairly easily duplicated using a short 5/16" fine thread brass bolt or plug drilled down the center with 1/8" copper tubing then inserted and soldered in place. Check what you removed or plugged in taking off the emissions gear and it might still be there.
With the new distributor, you'll need to do dynamic timing if you want to get it right. Easy enough, requiring only a timing light and I think a 1/2" wrench for the distributor.
A bit of advice: With the battery location so remote from the engine, most timing lights do not have cords long enough to reach them to get power. Itmeans you either have to have a separate power source (booster pack or spare battery) at the front of the car to use the light or get creative.
I used a cigarette lighter power adapter plug with a fairly long cord and fit the end of the leads with connectors that mate to my timing light. Since this is the only car I have that still has a distributor (the newer ones have power packs that are electronically controlled), fitting the timing light cord with this adapter solely for the B was fine. If you have other cars this would not work for, fit the battery clamps with the same adapter so they can be interchangeable with the lighter cord.
Timing is the same as any old car: Mark the damper pulley timing notch and stationery timing mark on the timing chain cover with a light paint (white-out or white nail polish work well). Warm the engine so the choke is off and the idle is low. Remove and plug the vacuum line at the distributor. Clamp* the timing light to the #1 spark plug wire. Reset the idle (900 rpm I believe). Aim the timing light at the damper and see where the mark falls relative to the static mark on the cover. Loosen the securing bolt on the distributor and adjust by twisting slowly to make the marks line up.
You may have to adjust the idle at times, especially if the marks are far off. Tighten the lock bolt when the timing is correct. Unplug and reconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and adjust the timing. Hit the road and try it.
Some timing lights do not have induction coils, so require removing the #1 plug wire and inserting an open adapter. Using this, be very careful to make sure the connections are tight and you don't get shocked holding the distributor to change the timing.
I hope this helps you. Let me know how you make out.