AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog
Subscribe in a reader

Join or renew today and receive a free t-shirt or tech CD, see details in the join the club section at!

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
General Discussion / Re: Refurbish Rubber Bumpers
« Last post by amgba on August 12, 2019, 12:27:49 AM »
I use Wizard's Black Renew. It took my almost grey bumper back to total black.

You apply several applications and do NOT Wipe off! My rubber bumper is now back to black!

Rob Courtier
Suspension Related Items / Re: Steering Wheel Position
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 11, 2019, 03:34:29 PM »
The position of the upper inner column is fixed by the bearing at the top of the column.  The inner column has a shoulder which abuts the bottom side of the bearing.  The inner column has a groove  into which a clip is fastened on the upper side of the bearing.  If you pound on the steering column too hard, that clip can be dislodged and the inner column moves fore and aft.

This is your problem. Spin the steering wheel nut onto the inner column, pull it towards you, then push the clip back into place.

Hope this helps.
John H Twist
University Motors Onlin
Suspension Related Items / Steering Wheel Position
« Last post by september2019 on August 11, 2019, 03:27:16 PM »
I have a 1980  Limited Edition. The steering wheel can be pulled/pushed forward and back about one inch. One person said to look in the engine bay by the firewall to see if it needed a bushing.

My mechanic has checked that and says that's not it. His thinking is that the crushable steering column probably has a pin that may have sheared off, and that's the possible problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again

Bruce Fraser
Engine Related Items / Re: No Starter Solenoid Clicking
« Last post by Art on August 11, 2019, 03:37:04 PM »
From the sound of it, the problem might be with the solenoid failing and maybe even the starter drive remaining engaged to the flywheel.  That might explain the smell you described.

The solenoid is on the starter, on the bottom as installed.  It's an electro-mechanical rig that the positive cable from the battery connects to, as well as the contacts for the ignition switch.

My suggestion to you would be to start with a rebuild, exchange unit or replacing the starter outright as a complete unit, solenoid and all.  Almost the same work as changing just the solenoid and deals with the unit completely.

Other than jacking the car up high enough and lying on your back to get at it, this is a fairly straight forward job.  And, again, youd have to do this to get at the solenoid.

The starter is left side bottom back of the engine, just about at the chassis line.

After removing the dust cover (if still there, it's a plastic can-shaped jacket over the starter, solenoid and positive cable from the battery), depending on year and model, there are the battery cable connection nut and 2 blade connectors to remove.  Then the 2 bolts that secure the starter to the flywheel, top and bottom of the starter's flange. 

The lower bolt is fairly easy to access, but a tip for the upper one is to have an assortment of extensions for your ratchet and kind of snake it in along the top of the starter so the wrench is in front of it, rather than trying to get at it from top, over the fender.  I use a 3/8" drive air ratchet for this job since it requires no swing room.   This has been a good investment overall and has saved my knuckles considerable pain. 

This is also probably one if the few times that the oil filter facing upward can be appreciated, as it is out of the way of this job.
With the bolts and wires removed, the starter pulls back, actually sliding toward the front of the engine, and drops out once it clears the lip of the bellhouse.

Installation is the reverse. Stock starters can be found rebuilt/exchange or outright sale both through the catalogs or, in some cases, through local parts stores.  The latter being easier if there's a core return involved, as well as being able to compare your old unit to the new one at the store.

Aftermarket high-torque starters are also available through the catalogs.

I hope this helps you.  Let me know how you make out.

Safety Fast!
Art Isaacs
Engine Related Items / No Starter Solenoid Clicking
« Last post by september2019 on August 11, 2019, 03:22:50 PM »
I took my B out yesterday It was a rather hot day here in Tennessee- mid 90s.  I drove it to get gas, then perhaps a half an hour trip to deliver my grand-daughter to her dad.  Came inside to cool off.  When I came out, the car started fine, but there was an unusual rattle, as if from something light weight,  coming from under the hood.  Nothing obvious when I popped the bonnet. 
Drove it home, (about hour); occasional whiffs of either something hot electrically or of a hot brake smell- could have been from other cars.  Let the car sit for an hour or so, then went out to start it up and move it into the garage. 

Nothing happened when I turned the key.  Headlights seemed bright; radio would come on with the key, but no solenoid clicking or sound from the starter.  I presume that there is a relay that is energized by the key in the start position; where is it, and is it reasonable that it might have failed?

If so, what diagnostic tests could I apply- presumably working with a voltmeter to check for the presence of absence of voltage on various connectors on the relay?

John W Philbrick
Brentwood, Tennessee
Body Work Related Items / Re: Paint Color
« Last post by amgba on August 11, 2019, 03:38:48 PM »
You might want to paint it the original color. The MGB is a beautiful car that looks good in all colors, but for originality you might want to research and go back to the original.

It might make it worth more if you ever sell it - though others may have a different opinion. Some enthusiasts look down on non original colors.

Micah Clark
Body Work Related Items / Paint Color
« Last post by september2019 on August 11, 2019, 03:13:52 PM »
I have a '73 MGB. I am cleaning the carbs and then I think I need to paint it. It was originally a maroon I think. The question is what color should I make it.

Richard Moon
Electrical Items / Re: Clicking Noise Under Hood
« Last post by amgba on August 11, 2019, 03:40:33 PM »
Remove the negative cable from the battery and hook up the positive cable. Now, remove the fuses from the fuse box. Close the doors and touch the negative cable to the battery negative post. If you hear the clicking, it has to be something to do with the starter.

The starter gets power directly from the battery. It's possible (I suppose) that the wire to the solenoid has somehow shorted and gets power as soon as the battery cable is installed.

If nothing happens when you touch the the cable end to the negative terminal, install the fuses - one at a time - until the clicking can be heard again. Run the electrics back from that fuse until you discover the source of your issue.

Scott Stuchell
Electrical Items / Clicking Noise Under Hood
« Last post by september2019 on August 11, 2019, 03:15:56 PM »
I just got my '75 MGB back from storage. i replaced the battery.

While hooking up the positive cable, I heard clicking under the hood. Anybody have any ideas what might cause this? Thanks!

Sue Collins
Body Work Related Items / Re: Door Panels Gasket
« Last post by amgba on August 11, 2019, 03:41:49 PM »
Depending on the thickness of the panel you can use a gasket punch like this.

I  have used mine for years to pop holes in many parts such as cardboard, cork gasket material and even materials such as 1/8 hardboard.

Mike Pelletier
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10

AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog