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Engine Related Items / Re: Water Pump
« Last post by amgba on Yesterday at 01:40:33 PM »
You have a two-groove pulley on an 18GB motor? That's incorrect. You should only have a one-groove pulley. The pulley only had one belt. It went from the crank, water pump, and generator. There is no second belt,
But, to keep things simple, probably best just to order the later water pump. The one they sent you is for the GB motor. Your "original" was not original.

It is not original. You have a '72 B. I assumed it to be in the 64-67 range because of the GB motor. Somebody put an early engine into your MkII MGB.

That's actually better in my  opinion. The GB motor is considered superior to the later ones by most folks.
I'm guessing that you have quite a few mods on that car. Different back and front plates as well to adapt to the later all-synchro trans, later starter, etc. etc. They adapted an early engine to fit your '72.

Brian Maesk
Engine Related Items / Water Pump
« Last post by september2020 on Yesterday at 01:24:41 PM »
I need assistance with my 18GB engine water pump. Ordered one from Moss but not the same as broken one I took off. Need help with correct replacement. Do I need to get a different pulley perhaps to align with crankshaft pulley. Thanks for any assistance. Pictures show old and new.

Phil Bradley
Transmission Related Discussion / Re: Overdrive Switch
« Last post by amgba on Yesterday at 01:41:12 PM »
In order to put the overdrive switch on the shifter, you would need the original shift knob, with the top for the switch. They are getting hard to find. If you wanted to put the overdrive on the wiper stalk as was done prior to '77, it will require some rewiring and modifications of the steering column.

George Van Horn
Transmission Related Discussion / Overdrive Switch
« Last post by september2020 on Yesterday at 01:28:29 PM »
I am adding an overdrive to my 77 MGB and I was wondering about the gear shifter and how to put the overdrive switch onto the old gear knob. I saw online that they have a cap with the switch you can put on top of the shift knob. Can you switch the old top of the knob with the one with the overdrive switch? I don't have my car at home as it in the shop being worked on or I would be able to figure this out on my own or take a picture to show what kind of knob I have. Has anybody else done this?

Any advice will help if you can considering I don't have the knob or pictures. The knob I have has MG on the top and the knob is leather or vinyl and I don't see any way to replace the top from what I can remember what it looks like.  I believe I will have to get a whole new knob for my car or buy an used gear lever with the overdrive switch. Any ideas?

Daryl Sessions

Dublin, California
Engine Related Items / Re: Radiator Repair or Replace
« Last post by JohnTwist on Yesterday at 01:42:30 PM »
You can almost always have your old rad repaired.  You can purchased a used one from Paul Dierschow at Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO.  And, I heard that Moss is shipping again.  You could try one of the Moss resellers Ė Little British Car Co, for example. 

This is a trying time for us all.
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
Engine Related Items / Radiator Repair or Replace
« Last post by september2020 on Yesterday at 01:32:51 PM »
We have a 1979 MGB that needs a new radiator. Our mechanic can't find one - or, they find them and the folks who have them won't ship! Moss, in particular and surprising. I'm thinking it has to do with the Covid virus, but everyone else is shipping, why not them?

Would you have any ideas where we can go to find one? Our car has been sitting in his garage for three weeks.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Sue Bailey and Ron Myhre
Engine Related Items / Re: Rebuilt HIF4 Carburetor Problems
« Last post by JohnTwist on Yesterday at 01:43:46 PM »
When you pull the T handle choke cable from the dash, it should move as much as two inches.  Ensure that when itís pulled to itís fullest that the interconnecting link between the carbs has rotated the choke cams as far as theyíll move.  That alone makes the mixture so rich that the MGB should start in even arctic conditions!

When setting up the fast idle, pull the choke out until the engine rpm reaches itís fastest.  Usually, if you pull beyond that point the rpm begins to drop.  Then, balance the carbs at an idle speed of about 1600-1800.  Thatís all there is to setting the choke idle.

John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
Engine Related Items / Rebuilt HIF4 Carburetor Problems
« Last post by september2020 on Yesterday at 01:35:01 PM »
I have a 1973 MGB with original, recently fully rebuilt, HIF4 carburetors.

Since the carb rebuild I am having a very difficult time starting the engine when it is cold. 

When the engine is at normal operating temperature it is very easy to start and it runs fine with a smooth idle around 950 rpm.

I am unable to get in touch with the technician who rebuilt the carbs and am wondering if you have any suggestions as to what I could try to rectify this problem. 

I'm wondering how far the fast idle screw needs advance along the choke cam at full choke to ensure full enrichment?  I checked the mixture looking for the 50 rpm blip that you mention in your video.  Not sure if I noticed that working alone without a tach but the engine neither raced or stalled out when I move the pistons with a small screwdriver.  If the carbs are set too lean would that be part of the issue with cold start problems even at full choke?

The service that included the carb rebuild included setting the timing, tappet clearances, new Champion plugs.  The car has Pertronix electronic ignition.

Thank you for any suggestions/guidance that you can provide.

Joe Prior
Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Electrical Items / Re: Tach Problems
« Last post by JohnTwist on Yesterday at 01:46:21 PM »
It is normal for the fuel pump to tick for ten seconds or so when you switch on the ignition, but then it should reduce to a click every ten seconds or so.  That is, if itís a factory SU fuel pump.

The tach swinging wildly indicates a fault in the wiring and/or a faulty tach.  The fuel pump circuit is common with the tach circuit, and itís certainly possible for an incorrect connection to have been made which would cause this. 

My Vietnam service began 17 June 1969.  My first assignment was to G-3 Artillery at USARV headquarters at Long Binh.  This five man office (LTC, MAJ, CPT, two E4s) kept track of the radar units (MPQ4s etc) and reported ďaccidents and incidentsĒ when we shelled our own men.  By October I requested a reassignment to a fire support base.  When I arrived at the 25th Inf Div for transport to the FSB, the G3 called me in and asked me to work in the HQ there Ė Cu Chi. 

I spent the remainder of my deployment working in the TOC, but flew enough hours with the chemical corps to get my combat air hours logged for an Air Medal.  The entire time I was a clerk, chairborne, ending as an E5 71B.  Two R&Rs in Taipei.  I ETSed 18 June 1970 as I had less than two months of active service remaining.  I was RA on a two year enlistment.  A good friend was editor of our college yearbook and asked for a picture of me to include (even though I didnít graduate) in the publication.  I had a friend shoot a whole roll (36) of B&W to get a Rambo shot.  This was the one I sent -- from bunker guard duty.  In a more detailed shot you can see the starch lines in my fatigues.  I had a great time in Vietnam, but I know most experiences were not the same as mine.  At the time of picture Iíd been an MG owner for about a year.

John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
Electrical Items / Tach Problems
« Last post by september2020 on Yesterday at 01:37:27 PM »
We acquired a 1970 MGB from my son as a 50th wedding gift. He knew we liked 2 seater rag tops because we owned a Austin Healey and a 124 Fiat Spider before we had kids.

I can go on about all the things that are wrong, but on start up when you first turn the key and the fuel pump starts the tach goes bananas rocking from 0 to 6000 rpm. Is this normal or is there a problem with the tach or the pump?

I'm also curious as to where you (John Twist) were in Vietnam while in the service.  I was in Natrang 43 Meical Hospital.

The only reason why I ask is because I have watched so many of your videos and feel connected.

Jim Young
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