AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog
Subscribe in a reader

Join or renew today and receive a free t-shirt or tech CD, see details in the join the club section at!

Recent Posts

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
27th Annual British Car Gathering, Hellertown, PA.,
12-14   68th Annual Glenwood Springs Rallye, Denver, CO.
Upcoming Show Announcements / June 2, 2020 - 33rd Annual British By The Sea, Waterford, CT
« Last post by amgba on September 09, 2019, 12:58:58 PM »
33rd Annual British By The Sea, Waterford, CT.,
22nd Annual British Return to Ft. Meigs, Perrysburg, OH.
54th Annual GOF South, Howey in the Hills, FL.
General Discussion / Re: Paint Color
« Last post by Art on August 20, 2019, 09:54:09 AM »
I have to agree. 

Mine is an older restoration from a time when everyone was painting their cars more 'popular' colors.  When I asked the same question of a club president at a show in NY I was attending, he actually looked at the original, unmolested Harvest Gold in the trunk of my 1973 B and said 'Any color but that!'  I went with Tartan Red, an original color for 73, but not for my car.

Looking at shows then (a sea of red and BRG cars, where no one car/color was terribly unique except the odd Damask, Blue or Harvest Gold one) and the much more colorful cars of today, I prefer the diversity.

The original Maroon is such a unique and deep color that looks so good on a chrome bumper car, I'd emphatically say to go original.

Safety Fast!


General Discussion / Re: Refurbish Rubber Bumpers
« Last post by amgba on August 12, 2019, 12:27:49 AM »
I use Wizard's Black Renew. It took my almost grey bumper back to total black.

You apply several applications and do NOT Wipe off! My rubber bumper is now back to black!

Rob Courtier
Suspension Related Items / Re: Steering Wheel Position
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 11, 2019, 03:34:29 PM »
The position of the upper inner column is fixed by the bearing at the top of the column.  The inner column has a shoulder which abuts the bottom side of the bearing.  The inner column has a groove  into which a clip is fastened on the upper side of the bearing.  If you pound on the steering column too hard, that clip can be dislodged and the inner column moves fore and aft.

This is your problem. Spin the steering wheel nut onto the inner column, pull it towards you, then push the clip back into place.

Hope this helps.
John H Twist
University Motors Onlin
Suspension Related Items / Steering Wheel Position
« Last post by september2019 on August 11, 2019, 03:27:16 PM »
I have a 1980  Limited Edition. The steering wheel can be pulled/pushed forward and back about one inch. One person said to look in the engine bay by the firewall to see if it needed a bushing.

My mechanic has checked that and says that's not it. His thinking is that the crushable steering column probably has a pin that may have sheared off, and that's the possible problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again

Bruce Fraser
Engine Related Items / Re: No Starter Solenoid Clicking
« Last post by Art on August 11, 2019, 03:37:04 PM »
From the sound of it, the problem might be with the solenoid failing and maybe even the starter drive remaining engaged to the flywheel.  That might explain the smell you described.

The solenoid is on the starter, on the bottom as installed.  It's an electro-mechanical rig that the positive cable from the battery connects to, as well as the contacts for the ignition switch.

My suggestion to you would be to start with a rebuild, exchange unit or replacing the starter outright as a complete unit, solenoid and all.  Almost the same work as changing just the solenoid and deals with the unit completely.

Other than jacking the car up high enough and lying on your back to get at it, this is a fairly straight forward job.  And, again, youd have to do this to get at the solenoid.

The starter is left side bottom back of the engine, just about at the chassis line.

After removing the dust cover (if still there, it's a plastic can-shaped jacket over the starter, solenoid and positive cable from the battery), depending on year and model, there are the battery cable connection nut and 2 blade connectors to remove.  Then the 2 bolts that secure the starter to the flywheel, top and bottom of the starter's flange. 

The lower bolt is fairly easy to access, but a tip for the upper one is to have an assortment of extensions for your ratchet and kind of snake it in along the top of the starter so the wrench is in front of it, rather than trying to get at it from top, over the fender.  I use a 3/8" drive air ratchet for this job since it requires no swing room.   This has been a good investment overall and has saved my knuckles considerable pain. 

This is also probably one if the few times that the oil filter facing upward can be appreciated, as it is out of the way of this job.
With the bolts and wires removed, the starter pulls back, actually sliding toward the front of the engine, and drops out once it clears the lip of the bellhouse.

Installation is the reverse. Stock starters can be found rebuilt/exchange or outright sale both through the catalogs or, in some cases, through local parts stores.  The latter being easier if there's a core return involved, as well as being able to compare your old unit to the new one at the store.

Aftermarket high-torque starters are also available through the catalogs.

I hope this helps you.  Let me know how you make out.

Safety Fast!
Art Isaacs
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10

   AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog