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Recent Posts

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21
Body Work Related Items / Front License Plate Holder
« Last post by september2021 on August 06, 2021, 01:07:02 PM »
What type of front license plate holder do folks use? I have a Ď75 MGB with rubber bumpers.  Thanks.
J. Michael Frasier
22
The '79 and '80 are nearly 100% parts exchangeable. Some minor wiring harness differences only.
Michael Caputo
23
I am thinking about buying a parts car. Are there any mechanical differences between the 79í and 80í models?
Michael Morett
24
Engine Related Items / Re: Valve Noise
« Last post by amgba on August 06, 2021, 01:37:08 PM »
The '79 and '80 are nearly 100% parts exchangeable. Some minor wiring harness differences only.

Michael Caputo
25
Engine Related Items / Valve Noise
« Last post by september2021 on August 06, 2021, 01:05:33 PM »
I have a '67 B. I know the engine valves can be a little noisy. These are normal quirks of the car but they now seem a little louder that usual. The car sat for about a year and a half before I acquired it (garage kept). Since April, I have put about 1200 miles on it. And with some of the hot days, it has been at the upper end of running temps. Would it be a good idea to go back and check the clearances and or do an oil change (thinking early oil breakdown as well since it sat)?
Vinnie Brown
26
Transmission Related Discussion / Re: Transmission Fluid
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 06, 2021, 01:39:55 PM »
Any oil is better than no oil; 20/50 or 30 weight non-detergent engine oils are the best oils.  In my days at the shop weíve drained out:  Automatic Transmission fluid (red); 80/90 gear oil; water and oil; and every now and then no oil at all. 

The TR6s use 80/90 and sometimes we would use 80/90 in a noisy Midget box.  Youíll be OK. 

Use the 80/90 in the differential, rack and pinion, and in the carb damper(s).

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
www.universitymotorsltd.com
27
Transmission Related Discussion / Transmission Fluid
« Last post by september2021 on August 06, 2021, 01:27:53 PM »
On my '76 MGB non overdrive I have been mistakenly using 80/90 weight gear oil in the transmission instead of 20/50 mineral oil.

I've driven like this for many years.

I will change it out to 20/50.

My question is

Is there any damage done by using the incorrect weight oil?
Would there be a reason to totally flush out the 80/90 ?
How would I go about rectifying this.

Thank you for your time. Best wishes

Aron Sokol
28
Upkeep and Performance Hints / SU Carbs
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 06, 2021, 01:51:22 PM »
I currently have a Weber carb on my 1980 MGB. I am thinking about installing SU carbs. Have heard you talk about them. Can you suggest exactly what twin carbs I should look for, how much to pay, maybe suggest where I could get a pair? Are rebuild parts available? Donít care too much for the carb. It does the job but would rather have the SUís.
Ted

My advice, if you want SU carburetors (and why would you not?), is to got with the HS carb used 1962-1971.  The HIF carb used 1972-1974 (and on the home models) has a float bowl at the bottom which makes them all but impossible to service in situ.  The HS and HIF use different thicknesses on the mating flanges of the intake and exhaust manifold. The HS is 1/8" thicker. 
I would change your exhaust, whatever it may be now, to the factory manifold and front header pipe.  It's the absolute best for the exhaust flow (double Y construction), and it fits and, properly fitted, doesn't leak.  Headers are not as good for the air flow, they're hot, and they're noisy -- AND they usually leak.  SU carbs look better, too.

So you'll want a "kit" with everything from the manifolding and front exhaust pipe to the carbs, linkages, cables, and air cleaners (conical K&N).  The only shop I know that could put this together and get it to you relatively quickly would be Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO.  Talk to Paul.  Price?  You'll have to ask him, but less than a supercharger!  Paul's email is in the To: address line above.

At the same time you'll want to get a new distributor conforming to the Lucas 40897 original 62-67 advance curve.  You can purchase one of those (or have yours rebuilt) from Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributor in MN or Rob Medynski at British Vacuum Unit in NH.  All three of these concerns have websites, emails, and phones.

Hope this helps!
SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
www.universitymotorsltd.com
29
General Discussion / SU Carbs
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 06, 2021, 01:51:22 PM »
I currently have a Weber carb on my 1980 MGB. I am thinking about installing SU carbs. Have heard you talk about them. Can you suggest exactly what twin carbs I should look for, how much to pay, maybe suggest where I could get a pair? Are rebuild parts available? Donít care too much for the carb. It does the job but would rather have the SUís.
Ted

My advice, if you want SU carburetors (and why would you not?), is to got with the HS carb used 1962-1971.  The HIF carb used 1972-1974 (and on the home models) has a float bowl at the bottom which makes them all but impossible to service in situ.  The HS and HIF use different thicknesses on the mating flanges of the intake and exhaust manifold. The HS is 1/8" thicker. 
I would change your exhaust, whatever it may be now, to the factory manifold and front header pipe.  It's the absolute best for the exhaust flow (double Y construction), and it fits and, properly fitted, doesn't leak.  Headers are not as good for the air flow, they're hot, and they're noisy -- AND they usually leak.  SU carbs look better, too.

So you'll want a "kit" with everything from the manifolding and front exhaust pipe to the carbs, linkages, cables, and air cleaners (conical K&N).  The only shop I know that could put this together and get it to you relatively quickly would be Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO.  Talk to Paul.  Price?  You'll have to ask him, but less than a supercharger!  Paul's email is in the To: address line above.

At the same time you'll want to get a new distributor conforming to the Lucas 40897 original 62-67 advance curve.  You can purchase one of those (or have yours rebuilt) from Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributor in MN or Rob Medynski at British Vacuum Unit in NH.  All three of these concerns have websites, emails, and phones.

Hope this helps!
SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
www.universitymotorsltd.com
30
General Discussion / Re: Transmission Fluid
« Last post by JohnTwist on August 06, 2021, 01:39:55 PM »
Any oil is better than no oil; 20/50 or 30 weight non-detergent engine oils are the best oils.  In my days at the shop weíve drained out:  Automatic Transmission fluid (red); 80/90 gear oil; water and oil; and every now and then no oil at all. 

The TR6s use 80/90 and sometimes we would use 80/90 in a noisy Midget box.  Youíll be OK. 

Use the 80/90 in the differential, rack and pinion, and in the carb damper(s).

SAFETY FAST!
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
www.universitymotorsltd.com
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