AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog
Subscribe in a reader

Join or renew today and receive a free t-shirt or tech CD, see details in the join the club section at!

Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
News and Announcements / Meet the New Members!
« Last post by amgba on April 12, 2019, 11:48:26 AM »
This topic highlights some of the new members that have joined the club since the last New Members was published. Recent members may appear in a subsequent topic.

Jeff Wilhelm, Jamestown, North Dakota

Bobby G. James, Colorado Springs, CO

David Sullins Stuart, Fort Myers, Florida
David has a '70 white MGB-GT.

Joe Opferman, Granger, Indiana

Diane Jenkins, Bella Vista, Arizona

Sharon Ricks, Vancouver, Washington

Nic Hall, Magnolia, Texas
Nic has a '79 salmon B roadster.
A complete copy of all the Technical Sections, topics, questions and answers published in the OCTAGON is available. 

Volume I contains reprints of the OCTAGONS published from 1975 to 1987.

Volume II contains reprints of the OCTAGONS published from 1988 to 1996.

Volume III contains reprints of the OCTAGONS published from 1997 to 2007.

Volumes I & II & III each sell for $30 each plus $5 S&H ($20 each emailed).

Volume IV contains reprints of the OCTAGONS published from 2008 to current and is available for $20 plus $5 S&H ($15 emailed).

Volume III and IV together on a CD-ROM in a pdf file and is available for $20 plus $5 S&H ($20 emailed).

The above can be purchased as part of a volume combo that contains Volumes I and II for $55.00 plus $10 S&H ($35 emailed). or a 3 volume combo that contains Volume I, II & III for $80 plus $15 S&H ($50 emailed) or a 4 volume combo that contains Volume I, II, III & IV for $95 plus $15 S&H ($55 emailed).

Also available is a CD combo which contains Volume I & II printed and Volumes III & IV on CD for $70 plus $15 S&H ($55 emailed).

All email versions are pdf files sent with no shipping charges. Each volume is indexed by subject for easy reference and each contains numerous articles, topics, questions and answers. 

Send to: AMGBA Technical Sections, 5433 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago, IL 60640 U.S.A. or order online at the club website at
Other items for sale / MGB fiberglass SnugTop
« Last post by amgba on March 17, 2019, 07:39:21 PM »
MGB fiberglass Snugtop by Custom Hardtops of Long Beach, CA purchased in the 1970s; in garage on or off the car. Black; good condition. $450; buyer pays shipping.    Amarillo, TX
Other items for sale / MGB 1967 4 speed transmission for sale
« Last post by steidinger on March 01, 2019, 07:25:57 AM »
I'm replacing my 4 speed with an overdrive transmission and believe I will sell the 4 speed. It works perfectly and will be available in a few weeks when the swap is completed. Would anyone be interested in making an offer? The buyer would also be responsible for any shipping costs but I do have a crate for it. Local pick up is an option (near Pinehurst, NC). My cell: 910-528-6939
Thank you.
Cars for sale / 1968 MGB roadster
« Last post by amgba on February 17, 2019, 12:27:16 PM »
1968 MGB roadster.  NO rust anywhere.  Factory hardtop (convertible top bows included).  Full tonneau cover.  Rescued from 30 years storage.  Mechanically refurbished by BMC factory trained mechanic. An un-restored, but thoroughly road-worthy car. Radio and heater delete.  $4800.00.  Call Bob at 304-268-9440.  Located in DC metro region.
Suspension Related Items / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by Art on January 04, 2019, 11:57:56 PM »
Good luck.  One last thought, this is again only if the wheel becomes sacrificial and you've already cut the wire to get the rim off.  Before removing the caliper and hub, you might try using a plate-type puller closed tight under the top lip of the wheel center.

Protect the threads with either an old knock-off or a disc of wood or heavy plastic (like an old cutting board) and a metal plate so the screw on the puller presses on them.

Use the puller as normal.  Maybe a little persuasion with a dead-blow hammer or mallet and some heat might coax the wheel center off the splined hub.

Hope any of this helps you.

Safety Fast!


Suspension Related Items / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on January 02, 2019, 11:10:52 AM »
Thanks for the reply.

Since i have a heat gun, I'll try that first.  If that doesn't work - with the hub still warm, I'll try Liquid Wrench or WD-40.

I'll keep you posted.
Suspension Related Items / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by Art on January 02, 2019, 04:30:53 AM »
Quite the winter project. 

Soaking the hubs in WD40 and/or Liquid Wrench or equivalent should help, whether rust or grease. If you've ever dealt with a frozen clutch plate, you realize how little rust it takes to seize things.  This could take a while.

If it's just a hard grease build-up, you may have to apply some heat to both expand the wheel center hub and help melt and soften the old grease. 

Heat could be supplied by a heat gun - a sort of a super-charged hair dryer.  Harbor Freight or Grainger have them reasonably cheap.   These could get hot enough to fry the paint, but shouldn't damage the wheels or hubs.  Using a torch requires you constantly move it to avoid making hot-spots and damage metal parts by weakening them.  Highly recommend using a propane torch, like to solder plumbing.  An acetylene torch can often be too focused, hot and do more harm than good.

On pullers or presses, I don't know of any that would work without major modification.  You might try a slide hammer with a 3-jaw clamp.  Besure to get one that has a locking ring so the jaws stay tight to the slight lip where the wires are attached at the top of the center hub.  Make sure to protect the threads on the front hubs in case the jaws slip. 

Also, you can jack the car up, partially screw an old knock-off onto the spline tube, hold a 2X4 over the top and then hit the board with a heavy mallet.   Could be just enough to loosen the wheel.

Lastly, if all fails and the wheel becomes sacrificial, cut the wires and remove the rim, take off the brake calipers and remove the front hubs.  You then might be able to use a disc grinder with a cutting wheel to slot the wheel hub enough to split it and then remove it.  The trick here is to not cut it so deep as to damage the splines on the hub.

Hope that helps.  Good luck.

Safety Fast!


Suspension Related Items / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on October 01, 2018, 07:44:15 PM »
Yes, but I need to get them off first.
Suspension Related Items / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 11:58:08 AM »
Having had an MGB with balky wheels, I found the best bet was to clean the splines on the wheels and hubs both. I used a wire wheel in my drill motor, and light lubrication afterward. It helped if I kept the splines lightly lubed. No build up of grease to trap dust, dirt, and sand. Normal rotation of the tires, and inspection of the splines at that time, should be sufficient intervals for checking the splines, or once a year at the least.

Scott Stuchell
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]

   AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog