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General Discussion / Refusing to Start Without a Bit of a Rest
« Last post by december2018 on October 29, 2018, 01:36:22 PM »
My B has developed a nasty habit of suddenly dying, refusing to start until it has had a bit of a rest, then starting and running fine, though perhaps briefly.

This happened first a few days ago when temperatures were in the low to mid 90’s.  After running fine on a return trip (20 minutes or so each way, suburban driving),  I gave it a little gas after coming to the bottom of a half mile hill.  Nothing.  Cranked fine; wouldn’t fire.  We spent five minutes or so in the heat pushing it off the busy, four lane, road and onto the side road that led to home.  I tried the starter- it fired immediately ran and got me the rest of the way home.
Later on, slightly cooler weather- two more round trips of the same sort as above; no problem. The second of those trips was yesterday; washed and waxed the car prior to a car show today.

I got up this morning temp around 50 degrees.   Drove it about five or ten minutes, turned off the busy road trying to find the show.  Wrong place.  Turned around, started back to the busy road; car died.  We did all the intelligent things we could think of with no tools; nothing made a difference.  We were about to give up, when I hit the starter again- it ran!!  Hurrah, let’s go.  Two or three minutes later, back on the busy road, and it died again.  Pushed it back to a safe place off the road.  Similar pattern- looked like plenty of fuel in the fuel filter; starter spun the engine fine, but wouldn’t even pop,  until perhaps ten minutes later when it fired (normally), and ran.  Being a bit skeptical, we let it sit for a few minutes; again, it died.  By this time a “car guy” from the show had appeared.  He was suspicious of an overheating coil, but it was not hot to his touch.  His other thought was that there may be an electronic module which was overheating.

I went to the show without the car; came back a couple of hours later, and was able to get it back home.

Your thoughts?  Any further diagnostics I should do? 

John W Philbrick
Brentwood, Tennessee
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Re: Gauge Problems
« Last post by september2018 on October 16, 2018, 09:41:25 PM »
This was posted in Dec. 2017, 10 months ago and has over 700 "reads".  Tells me instruments are a topic of interest.  I just got my ol' 1974 B back and have trouble with the gas gauge not registering, so I installed a new sending unit.  Simple, and the float in the old sender had gas in it. Thought I had solved the problem, but the gauge still wouldn't register.  Removing the new sending unit I found gas in the NEW plastic float. There is a small crack on the shoulder of the groove where it fits in the wire arm.  I manually operated the arm of the sending unit,  the new gauge registered no more than a half tank. Too much resistance in the wire between the gauge and the sending unit?  I will try a new connector.   Ordered a new brass float, but why doesn't the sending unit allow the new gauge to register full?  With about 6 gallons of gas it registers a quarter.  Now I am thinking it may have one of those new, larger tanks!  When I re-reinstall with the new float, I will fill it up and see how much it takes and what it registers, and measure the volts from the voltage stabilizer to see if it is putting out a full 10 Vts.  But the speedometer is wildly optimistic!  At 65 MPH per a GPS, the speedo registers 80 MPH!  The speedo is not connected to the voltage stabilizer.  Must I send the speedo out for calibration?

Replaced  leaking plastic float #2 with a brass one, tightened the connector, and its registering about the amount of gas it should, at over 1/2 tank. (I checked voltage to the fuel gauge and its just over 9.9 volts.) Fixed for now!  Lesson, don't trust those plastic floats.   Speedo is still overly optimistic.
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on October 01, 2018, 07:44:15 PM »
Yes, but I need to get them off first.
Wanted / MG Midget and MGB Hardtops.
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 12:48:22 PM »
MG Midget and MGB Hardtops.  Please send a photo of whatever hardtop you aren't using, any style and any condition. Please send info to or call Greg Abrams 805-405-3617.
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 11:58:08 AM »
Having had an MGB with balky wheels, I found the best bet was to clean the splines on the wheels and hubs both. I used a wire wheel in my drill motor, and light lubrication afterward. It helped if I kept the splines lightly lubed. No build up of grease to trap dust, dirt, and sand. Normal rotation of the tires, and inspection of the splines at that time, should be sufficient intervals for checking the splines, or once a year at the least.

Scott Stuchell
General Discussion / Re: removing a wire wheel
« Last post by amgba on September 30, 2018, 04:20:50 PM »
To choose your own login, logout of the one we gave your and sign up for a new account.

Suggest posting in our Facebook group at but see below answer.

General Discussion / removing a wire wheel
« Last post by september2018 on September 27, 2018, 05:29:00 PM »
The rear wheels slide off their splined hubs easily; those at the front don't.

Do you have any thoughts or ideas re: how I might temporarily modify a puller so that it will work without damaging the wires, or do you have other ideas?  I'm certain that others have had to deal with this problem.

Thank you

BTW, where do I set up a username?
General Discussion / Re: brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by amgba on October 01, 2018, 12:02:44 PM »
The new is synthetic but I still use castrol dot 4 on all my Brit stuff
Steve Coe
General Discussion / Re: brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by amgba on September 30, 2018, 04:21:20 PM »
Suggest posting in our Facebook group at
But also see next reply.

General Discussion / brake fluid, past and present
« Last post by september2018 on September 28, 2018, 11:54:37 AM »
I recall that in ages past one could get into serious trouble if using the wrong brake fluid.  Seals would dissolve and brakes and the clutch would fail.  The name Girling comes to mind as the approved fluid to use.

Has the situation changed within the past 30+ years?  Assuming new piston seals, what special requirements are there for brake fluid?

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