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MK II B roadsters ('67 to '74 1/2) / Re: reinstalling seats in my B
« Last post by Perry69 on March 26, 2021, 03:17:51 PM »
thank you Art!
MK II B roadsters ('67 to '74 1/2) / Re: reinstalling seats in my B
« Last post by Art on March 26, 2021, 02:59:18 PM »

Generally, I would say a White Lithium Grease, like Permatex 80345.

Safety Fast,

MK II B roadsters ('67 to '74 1/2) / reinstalling seats in my B
« Last post by Perry69 on March 23, 2021, 06:06:21 PM »
I had the seats reupholstered and am about to reinstall them. What does anyone recommend to lubricate the rails the seats attach to and slide on?
Suspension Related Items / Re: Rear Springs Replacement
« Last post by Art on March 18, 2021, 10:36:31 AM »
I'll add to that saying that it's a good idea to have at least a set of (2) replacement u-bolts for the rear axles.  I find there's always one that the bolt breaks every time I do this. 

The usual suspects (parts catalogs) carry exact replacements at reasonable cost (about $2.50-$3.00 each).  At that price it's good to have because it's annoying to be stuck and unable to finish the job because one or more of them broke.  Having been caught by this once, I found an alternative in a heavier piece from the universal replacement parts rack at a local NAPA or Pep Boys store.  I had to drill the holes in the bottom plate slightly larger for the bigger bolt diameter, but it was otherwise an exact fit over the axle.

I would also suggest you check the rebound straps beforehand as well.  While not necessarily part of the job replacing the springs, it is a good time to make sure they are not rotten or broken and that the welded attachment points to the axle are not rusted through and about to fall-off or gone already.  You would have to take the u-bolts off to replace the attachment pieces, so good to know what's doing before you start. 

Safety Fast!

General Discussion / Re: Radiator problem
« Last post by Art on March 18, 2021, 08:34:03 AM »
Hi Perry,

I had a similar issue with my '73.  I replaced the radiator with an aftermarket aluminum unit.  It offered a wider core and more capacity at less than the cost of re-coring or replacing the original at between $200-$250.  And aluminum, as a material, dissipates heat better.

My electric fan was installed as yours was and I reinstalled it the same way.  Going forward, I would prefer to have the brackets to suspend the fan off the frame, like the Revotec units offered by Moss, but those fans cost more than the radiators do.

So far, it works very well and looks good to boot (see attached).  We'll have to wait and see how it holds up for the long run.  The original has been in my MGB for at least the first 30 years that I've owned it.

Just another option to consider.  Hope that helps.

Safety Fast!

General Discussion / Re: Loss of Power
« Last post by Art on March 18, 2021, 08:06:26 AM »
Hi Heinz,

I'll add another to John's comments:  Check the vacuum and mechanical timing advance systems of the distributor.  Both the older 25D4 and later 45D4 distributors can have the vacuum advance pots fail and that is usually in conjunction with (or because of) binding in the mechanical system inside the distributor.  Either of which could be in your B. 

The classic signs of the advance system failure is the engine stumbling, sputtering and bogging under hard acceleration, just as you describe.  In the 25D4 unit, the typical fail is that the actuator arm connecting the moving plate in the distributor to the vacuum pot disconnects from the pot, so leaves the distributor working on mechanical advance only.  That only performs better at low speeds and slow acceleration.

In both distributor instances, if you open the cap and can move the plate easily by hand, chances are the vacuum advance unit is faulty.  If you can't, it should still warrant taking it further and hooking a vacuum source (brake bleeder or Mighty-Vac unit) to the vacuum line of the pot and see it moves then. 

If it still doesn't move, maybe dismantling the distributor to see if it is the pot and/or if the plate is seized.  The plate being seized can happen from rust or even from using the wrong length screws in securing the points or condenser.  A long screw can jam the plate to the distributor and prevent it from moving freely.

I hope that helps you.  Good luck.

General Discussion / Re: Eastern Iowa MGB help
« Last post by amgba on March 15, 2021, 09:49:50 AM »
I would suggest you post your question on our Facebook Group at: .  A lot more members are active on that.   Also not sure what you mean by "I pay with Jeeps" ?

General Discussion / Eastern Iowa MGB help
« Last post by march2021 on March 15, 2021, 09:02:56 AM »
Hello, I just inherited a nicely restored '64 MGB that has been in the family since 1966. I pay with old jeeps but the MGB is a new learning curve. I would like to meet owners and find some help and a body shop with MGB experience in the Eastern Iowa area. Suggestions? Thank you, John
Cars for sale / 1973 MGB-GT
« Last post by amgba on March 01, 2021, 05:34:35 PM »
1973 MGB-GT in excellent condition.  Have owned since 1975.  Always garaged, no rust.  All original except normal maintenance.  12V battery replacing two 6V batteries.  New Monza exhaust system - sounds great! Will sell for best offer over $10,000.  See car in Bradenton, Florida. or 978-473-9586.
MK II B roadsters ('67 to '74 1/2) / Re: Radiator problem
« Last post by amgba on February 21, 2021, 11:29:04 PM »
The stock fan ran on a pully that was attached to the water pump. Take a look at the schematic in Moss. Your fan sounds like a replacement electric fan, which is not a bad thing as engine turned fans take a lot of power out of the motor. You should have your radiator pressure checked and go from there. Odds are the core is leaking and a new radiator might be in store. Best of luck.
Jeff Brooke
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