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91
General Discussion / Re: Outer Rockers Patching
« Last post by amgba on November 14, 2020, 05:38:46 PM »
Back in the mid-'80s I paid a company in the Phoenix, Arizona area to replace all of my body panels from the chrome strip down. They pretended they did that, and charged me accordingly. What they actually did was put bondo on it and repainted it. It caused a major disintegration in the next few years and I just finished having to have everything completely redone at great expense. My suggestion is wait until you can afford to do it right. Half-measures will only bring you sadness.

The good news is here is what it looks like today.

Jim Turk
92
General Discussion / Re: Windshield Frame Polishing
« Last post by amgba on November 14, 2020, 05:37:38 PM »
I had my frame polished and they look great like that, There is an anodize coating on the frame and once you polish it to keep it looking nice you'll have to continue to polish it... I ended up changing it out when I found a frame that had been chromed..
Chris Brinkman
93
General Discussion / Re: Lug Nuts
« Last post by JohnTwist on November 14, 2020, 05:35:54 PM »
If Moss or Victoria British doesn't have them in their on-line offerings, you could contact Paul Dierschow at Sportscar Craftsmen in Arvada, CO.  He might be able to send you some or offer advice on which nuts to purchased from NAPA. 
It's a 1/2 fine thread.

John Twist
SAFETY FAST!
www.universitymotorsltd.com
94
General Discussion / Re: Radiator Clearance
« Last post by JohnTwist on November 14, 2020, 05:35:11 PM »
Rule Number One:  Never throw anything away.  But now you know that!

As I remember, there is a radiator for the 1975 and then a much wider radiator for the '76-'79.  I do not remember there being a change in the measurements fore and aft.  So, either the fan/water pump are incorrect, the radiator is incorrect, or the cowl is incorrect.  You can contact Glenn Lenhard of Glenn's MG Service in Tampa (he's closest to you) and ask / travel there for an inspection.  You can order the correct used cowl from Paul at Sportscar Craftsmen in Denver CO -- maybe even a good used rad. 

The earlier Spridget engine uses a completely different water pump and fan, so that's not a solution.  Some of the Triumphs used a fixed fan (without the clutch), but I don't know about the spacing on those.  If you sent me a couple of pictures of what you have in place now, I might be able to make a suggestion.  I don't have a 1500 Midget close by to inspect.  Let me know what you eventually find -- or how you have solved the problem.

John Twist
95
General Discussion / Re: Noise from Under Car
« Last post by JohnTwist on November 14, 2020, 05:30:27 PM »
If it is heat that makes a difference, then it's probably not the suspension.   My guess would be the exhaust as that is on the left side of the vehicle.  But what about the exhaust is causing the click / clunk?  There is a strap between the exhaust and the joint of the engine/gearbox which is sometimes missing and often loose.  If you can get underneath (just jack up the left hand side) you can grab the cold exhaust and push it back and forth -- that might give you a hint as to the source of the noise.  When you are starting off, the engine tips to the right (opposite direction of crank rotation) which might cause a clamp or strap to shift.  Let me know what you find!

Hope this little bit helps.  Roger Parker from the MGOC will probably weigh in on this since he's just up the road from you.

John Twist
SAFETY FAST!
96
General Discussion / Re: Replace Original Shocks?
« Last post by JohnTwist on November 14, 2020, 05:29:16 PM »
Long time since we're seen each other, for sure!  Replace the shocks only if they're faulty.  If the arm moves with great resistance then they're OK.  They're usually OK!  If you do want to fit rebuilt units, contact Peter Caldwell at Worldwide Imports in Madison, Wisconsin.  He's the best rebuilder.

John Twist

SAFETY FAST!
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids MI 49506-2410
Cell  616 307 6737
www.universitymotorsltd.com

97
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Painting Rostyle Wheels
« Last post by JohnTwist on November 14, 2020, 05:20:09 PM »
There's been a lot published recently about painting Rostyle wheels.  This is the way I've done it:  Sandblast the wheels; paint the center section in black; mask off the center section; use an Exacto knife to trim;  paint the wheel in 1976 Ford Grenada Silver; and then, finally, clear coat.  Final pictures yet to come.  I learned this approach from John Mangles of St Louis MO.  It is TEDIOUS to do all the taping and trimming -- but the result is superior (you'll see!).  This is for my daughter Barbara's 1973 MGB/GT.

John Twist
98
Upkeep and Performance Hints / Carburetor Selection
« Last post by amgba on November 14, 2020, 05:18:32 PM »
I've driven MGBs for 50+ years with dual HS-4s, dual HS-6s, dual HIF-4s, single Weber 32/36 downdraft, and dual Weber DCOE 45 sidedrafts.

Carburetors should be selected based on objectives.

If it's advice you're looking for, the best I have is: use your MGB as a daily driver! That will "blow the dust out of it," keep it in good condition, make you aware of its needs, force you to maintain it, make you appreciate it, and give you plenty of fun, joy, and pride of ownership.

Naysayers and purists will urge you to keep the SUs. It's a decent carburetor but, other than cool looks and originality, there's nothing magic about them.

The SU was invented in 1904, so don't believe the uninformed who tell you it was designed for the MG.

It was simple and cheap and that's why it was selected. They are easy to tune, slightly difficult to keep synchronized, and in many cases have to be frequently re-tuned (usually a fairly easy job).

Because most of them are very OLD, they are often worn and require rebuilding.

The Weber downdraft – which is a two-stage carb – comes in several models (with throat sizes of 32/36, 32/38, 36/38, 38/38, etc.). Under normal driving conditions you are using just one pump and throat, resulting in excellent gas mileage. When you need acceleration – or just thrills – a further push on the pedal engages the second stage for a surprising zip. It's slightly more complex to set up than a single HS-4 but about the same as two of them. If it's in good physical condition, it's quite stable.

Many people confuse the Weber downdraft that you're considering with the much bigger, MUCH higher performance potential DCOE sidedraft – which is a very serious carburetor that, in pairs, has four times the fuel-air delivery potential as dual HS-4s.

I currently have a really souped up, bored, balanced, high compression, '78 with racing spec internals, street-racing cam, crossflow head, tuned DUI coil-distributor, roller rockers, and much more. It's a little rocketship to drive.

I also have a '73 with dual HIF-4s and it's a ball, as well. It has the usual MGB slow reality, fast feel, and thrills to drive.

I drove one with a Weber 32/36 for several years and was quite satisfied with it ... and I have a bit of a heavy foot and love speed-shifting through the gears. It was a solidly driving car with excellent fuel economy and handled exceptionally well on numerous cross country road trips and as a daily driver.

In general, I avoid asking people's advice: the purists will ALWAYS tell you not to "ruin" it by making any changes; everyone else will tend to advocate for whatever they have; many of them never tried anything else and the few who did might have never learned how to properly use the alternative product or system.

Instead, I ask specific questions and make sure other members know am seeking information and not looking for opinions. Hope this is helpful.

Barry Barnes
99
General Discussion / Lug Nuts
« Last post by december2020 on November 14, 2020, 05:15:58 PM »
I have a 1978 MGB and bought mini lite wheels but they didn’t come with lug nuts.  Do you know what the proper lug nuts that would fit my application.
Thank You,
Francisco
100
General Discussion / Rear Transmission Seal Replacement
« Last post by december2020 on November 14, 2020, 05:15:18 PM »
I may have asked this before. I have a  '78 MGB 4 speed rear transmission seal replacement question. Is it a simple matter of pulling out the old and installing the new?
Glenn Salzman
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