AMGBA Technical Sections (Vol. III & IV) - copies of tech topics published from 1997 to current in the Octagon on CD-Rom/USB drive/emailed, indexed: $25; printed version $50 (see club store at for ordering details)

Main Menu

AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog

Join or renew for 3 years and receive a free t-shirt
or tech sections on USB flash drive /emailed/CD or past Octagon issues on USB flash drive/emailed/CD
see details in the join the club section at!

MGB Stored for More Than 20 Years

Started by amgba, May 06, 2018, 07:37:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


I have in my garage, a 1974 Sabrina MGB that was parked in 1994, and there it has sat. All that gasoline, oil, fluids and such, just sitting there for the past 23 years. I believe there may be some issues

What do you think about the gas tank and the metal brake lines, not to mention everything else. Oh, one more thing. I am going to de-smog most of the engine, I'll have the heads machined, match the ignition and re-jet the carbs to match. Should I stay with the HIF's or move to HS4's, in other words, would that be money well spent or fuelish.

The MG straddles a 1907 era service pit that is part of our garage.

Enjoy your website very much. I'm sure a jolly time awaits.

Ron Nugent
Pasadena, California
American MGB Association
phone/text: 773-769-7084

North America's oldest and largest club for all MGBs, MGB-GTs & Midgets.  A nonprofit organization founded in 1975 and offers color magazines, emagazines, technical advice, member recommendations on service shops, registration of your MG, a tradition of service & FREE member classified ads that appear in the magazine & on the website.


After such a sleep, you'll want to attend to a great number of mechanical items on your MGB.  As an aside, the true 1974 ½ models have the full rubber bumpers.  The MGBs with the Sabrinas (or Dolly Parton overriders as I usually call them) are the mid-production style.

Find the "Complete Lubrication" on my website and follow it thoroughly.  Change ALL the rubber lines, fuel, cooling, and brake.  Change the tank only if you detect rust (just peer into the tank once the filler neck is moved out of the way.  The steel brake lines are usually OK, but you can literally stand on the brakes to try to find weak (leak) points.  Better in your shop than on the road!  Leave the charcoal canister in place – that's a passive system that takes no energy and allows the anti run-on circuit to operate.

John H Twist.
John H Twist
University Motors Online
100 East Beltline Avenue SE
Grand Rapids, MI  49506


If you have found my technical advice helpful, please consider making a contribution to help defray my online expenses.  Go to my website and click the PayPal button:

   back to AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog