AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog
Subscribe in a reader


Join or renew today and receive a free t-shirt or tech CD, see details in the join the club section at www.mgclub.org!

Author Topic: 1972 MGB GT.... To buy or not to buy?  (Read 6483 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

71Jetta

  • Message Board Member but not an AMGBA Club Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
1972 MGB GT.... To buy or not to buy?
« on: June 27, 2010, 09:41:00 PM »
Hi everyone..

  I recently came across a 1972 MGB GT for $500.  The car has a blown engine (which isnt a huge deal to me, as it would be a project car), the windshield is "bullseyed", and the windshield needs a new rubber seal.  Other then that, the owner says it doesn't have any other serious issues.

 The car has it's original paint (but needs repainted).Disc brakes, Rostyle wheels. It also has a clean title.





 Is $500 a fair price for a GT in this condition? (Keep in mind... The car is about 350 miles from me... So i would also have to pay about $200 to tow it to me).

 I really like the older British Hatchbacks (Like the GT and the Triumph GT6), But I really don't know much about them Value-wise.


Thanks!!
« Last Edit: June 27, 2010, 09:49:15 PM by 71Jetta »

Art

  • chfwrench
  • AMGBA Club Tech Staff
  • ****
  • Posts: 260
  • Memberhsip Number (if known):: 91-10014
  • MG information: '73 red B roadster
Re: 1972 MGB GT.... To buy or not to buy?
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2010, 02:02:56 PM »
If the car is complete and not rusted (floor pans, sills and rockers - the latter 2 of which are structural, so check if they have been filled or repaired cosmetically because proper repair is very costly), this should be a fair deal, even with the $200 tow fee.  It cost me almost that much to rent a U-Haul truck and trailer for a day to move my car from NJ to NY (about 50 miles) back in 1990.

Knowing what you are getting into is important.  Almost everything is still available for these cars from catalog sources like Victoria British (www.victoriabritish.com) and others, including the windscreeen and gasket you mentioned, but some things can get pricey and if it requires outside specialists, very expensive.

GT bodies tend to hold up a bit better as they are tighter and enclosed and the roof adds more structure to the car, so even some rust tends not to make the body sag or weaken dangerously.  Rust and bodywork is still the most expensive part of the restoration effort. 

That the engine is blown is not as major an issue as rust.  These engines are described as 'agricultural' in nature, which besides any crude or unsophistacted connotation that goes with this, it also means very strong.  The catalogs all carry up to .060 oversized pistons and I have seen up to .090 available, as well as these are lined cylinders, so as long as the block is intact, the cylinders can be replaced or the bores can go out fairly large.  Heads are available as full assemblies as are new, reconditioned and performance pistons, heads, distributors, carbs, cranks, cams and rods.  The thing here is that these cars are so interchangeable, even internally, that you should take it apart to see what is there before you order anything.

Even if not rebuidable or suitable as core for change, used original engines are readily available and completely interchangeable between years, though you'd want to stay with the later 5-main engines.  I don't know if they still do, but some auto parts chains selling short- and long-blocks do have the 1.8L 5-main MGB engine available. 

Another route would be to go off the reservation a bit and fit a Rover 3.5L (nee Buick 215 CID) V8 into it.  The engine is an aluminum block and actually weighs less than the original 4 cylinder, so no suspension change of any magnitude are necessary. Kits and the engines are available from many sources.

The trans is a pretty robust item as well.  You should have the 4-speed full synchro unit in the car already.  It might even have overdrive, a really big plus.  If they work, great.  If they need rebuilding or you are considering upgrading to an overdrive unit, this gets expensive. A used trans in good shape is still around cheap.  Other alternatives would be to convert to a modern 5-speed, which kits are available for.  Near $2,000 for the kit, they are still less than the OD unit and would be lighter and more reliable.

The outside of the car looks like the body is reasonably complete.  All door and window gaskets are available as are 90% of the trim items, including grilles and bumpers.  The Rostyle wheels can be dipped or blasted and refinished, or replaced with period style alloys for a reasonable price. 

GT's tend to have better condition interiors and upholstery, being enclosed.   This is a  growing cost that not all hobbiests have the ability to do themselves, so it is a big plus if it is in decent condition and can wait a while for attention.  Carpet is reasonable in cost and fairly easy to do yourself.

I hope that helps you.  Keep us posted on your decision and then use the board, email to us and your local clubs to help with the restoration.

Welcome to the club!

Art
Art Isaacs
AMGBA Tech Staff
chfwrench@aol.com

71Jetta

  • Message Board Member but not an AMGBA Club Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Re: 1972 MGB GT.... To buy or not to buy?
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2010, 04:15:40 AM »
Thanks for all the valuable info!

I went and inspected the car, and it turned out to be a really solid car.  It has very little surface rust (has it all over the body, but its a very thin layer and only small spots). The floor and underneath the car is really solid. The only real rust is underneath the dash, which is pretty covered in a layer of rust/corrosion, But seems to still have solid metal underneath.

It's missing all the trim/rubber that goes around the windshield, so that will be the first item on my to-do list.  The interior is all there, but most will need replaced, or at least a good cleaning.

  It still has the engine block in it, but piston #3 is cracked, so it will be getting a new engine once I can afford it.


 All in all, I am very happy with my purchase, and I will post pictures as soon as I bring it home (It's sitting at a friends house until I can afford to have it shipped up here too me.).


 Does anyone know where I can pick up the windshield trim for a decent price? It needs everything used to hold the windshield in. I was looking at this site: http://www.northwestimportparts.com/MGB-Body-Seals-i49.aspx  But I am not sure if I'd just need the seal? Or the filler strip and stuff too? The windshield has nothing right now.. the glass is sitting inside the car because it has nothing that goes between it and the windshield frame.


Thanks!

Art

  • chfwrench
  • AMGBA Club Tech Staff
  • ****
  • Posts: 260
  • Memberhsip Number (if known):: 91-10014
  • MG information: '73 red B roadster
Re: 1972 MGB GT.... To buy or not to buy?
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2010, 01:37:47 PM »

Sounds like a good buy.  Enjoy it.

Try Victoria British (www.victoriabritish.com) where the windshield seal (p/n 9-9323) is about $50 and the filler strip (12-7260) is $6.

Also Moss Motors (www.mossmotors.com) where the windshield seal (p/n 282-430 - Glazing, Rubber) is $45 and the filler strip (p/n 282-485) is $9. 

The windshields themselves run between $110 (clear) to $130 (tinted) and the chrome finishers are about $90 for the set.  Remember to add shipping to all prices.

There are other sources, but these and "The Roadster Factory" (I don't have the web info for them) are the most complete parts catalogs I've worked with.  You should also ask your local glass shop.  You get surprised somes by the prices from them.

Good luck.

Art
Art Isaacs
AMGBA Tech Staff
chfwrench@aol.com


 

   AMGBA website home page or AMGBA Photo Gallery or AMGBA Club Blog